We Ship Worldwide

By CODO Fashion Experts

In a time when societal standards prevented women from shoulder carrying their bags, the visionary Coco Chanel wanted to go hands-free. Inspired by military satchels of the time, featuring diamond-patterned leather, rectangular metal locking mechanism and a lengthy, all-chain strap to be worn on the shoulder, Chanel released the 2.55 Flap Bag. The name “2.55” stems from the time of its creation: “2” for February and “55” for the year 1955. 

(Pictured below: a vintage 2.55 bag. Note the all-chain strap lengthy enough for shoulder carry, and the original Mademoiselle Lock)

vintage 2.55 Chanel bag

(Pictured below: the original Mademoiselle closure)

the original Mademoiselle closure

From a distance, the vintage 2.55 with its rectangular silhouette, quilted leather pattern and metal accessories resembles many other Chanel handbags. However, there are several notable features which distinguish the original 2.55 from the many other Flaps Chanel has to offer. First and foremost is the lock: The original 2.55 featured the rectangular “Mademoiselle” lock—it is said that the mechanism was given this moniker because Coco never married. 

The Mademoiselle Lock was a mainstay of Chanel Flaps until the legendary designer Karl Lagerfeld assumed the role of Chanel’s creative director in 1983. During this period of Chanel’s decline, Lagerfeld revitalized the Flap with a new interlocking CC logo lock and woven leather/chain straps.

Original and Classic Chanel 2.55 Flap Bag

Above is a side-by-side comparison of original 2.55 Flap bag (left) and Classic Chanel Flap Bag (right) as conceived by Karl Lagerfeld. Note the difference in the locks and straps, as well as the creased, vintage appearance of the leather on the original 2.55 Flap compared to the Classic Flap’s more youthful skin tone.


Karl Lagerfeld’s modernized take on the original Flap bag breathed new life into the fashion house, his design becoming so popular that the original 2.55 was taken out of production. The CC lock Flap Bag, assuming the name “Classic Flap” had taken over, becoming the staple bag in any woman’s wardrobe. However, Lagerfeld, a master of visionary design elements rooted in classic traditions, placed the original 2.55 back into production in 2005 to commemorate the 2.55 bag’s 50th anniversary, with the same exact specifications (albeit with slight alterations to the strap, inner flap and exterior leather) as Chanel’s original 2.55 Flap. This remake is known as the 2.55 Reissue Flap. With its slightly tarnished chain, tumbled leather and vintage closure lock, the Reissue has reclaimed its fame and remains a highly collectible addition to your closet.


Technically, only those 2.55s produced in 2005 should be called “Reissues”, as reissue is simply a term for renewed production of an item that was taken out of production. However, for convenience, all 2.55 flap bags resembling the original 2.55 (i.e.have an all-chain strap and rectangular mademoiselle lock) are collectively known as Reissues, whereas all 2.55 flaps resembling Lagerfeld’s conception (i.e. CC lock and leather/metal interwoven straps) are commonly referred to as Classic flap bags.

Other Publications

  • Posted byCODO . /
  • slide-17


  • Posted On May 10, 2020 by Team CODO

    Thank you Guido for your question and your email. We have sold a number of Chanel bags with ruthenium hardware. This type of chain is used on reissue bags and a few fashion bags. The middle links must show some detail, which in your case the details are present. Also, the shade of ruthenium is correct. Overall, your chain looks right to us. It is important to look at the zipper’s base on the inner pocket for the reassurance and overall craftsmanship of the bag. We have not seen a good fake of the reissue bag, as they are somewhat hard to replicate.

    Let us know if you have more questions.

  • Posted On May 07, 2020 by Guido De Troyer

    Noticed that the links of an all metal chain (2.55 reissue) sometimes are different, melted or soldered or just pinched.
    Was this during a certain period or because some are made in France or Italy.
    I’m looking for an answer … do you have the right one please?

Leave a comment